If you’ve ever clicked a suit size and hit that little fork in the road - Short, Regular, or Long - you’re not alone. Most guys assume it’s about how slim the suit is. It’s not. In almost every case, those letters are about length and proportions, not tightness.
Here’s the clean way to think about it: the number (like 40) is your chest size. The letter is the suit’s length category. So 40S / 40R / 40L are the same “width,” but built for different heights and body proportions.
In other words, when someone asks what the difference is between short fit, regular fit, and long fit suits, the answer is simple: you’re choosing the suit’s vertical proportions - how the jacket and sleeves fall, and how the pants are proportioned to match.
If you want help dialing in your size, start with our main suit collection, then narrow from there: Shop Suits. If you’re shopping by occasion, you may also like our Walking Suits and Blazers.
The Fast Answer: What Changes Between S, R, and L?
Switching from S to R to L mostly changes three things:
- Jacket length (where the hem lands on your seat and upper thigh)
- Sleeve length (where the cuff hits on your wrist)
- Trouser proportion (typically a longer inseam, and sometimes a slightly different rise so the whole silhouette stays balanced)
A Simple Height Guide (Helpful - Not a Law of Nature)
Most brands use a rough height range that looks like this:
- Short (S): about 5'4" to 5'7"
- Regular (R): about 5'8" to 6'1"
- Long (L): about 6'2" and up
But height isn’t the whole story. Two guys can both be 5'9" and wear the same chest size, but one has long legs and a shorter torso while the other has the opposite build. That’s when the letter matters.
If you want a quick sanity check before you order: look at how your best-fitting jacket behaves. If it feels like it rides up and shows too much seat, you may need Regular or Long. If it feels like it covers too much of you and makes your legs look shorter, you may need Short.
The Tailor-Level Explanation: Why S/R/L Matters More Than People Think
A tailor doesn’t think in “short guy” and “tall guy.” A tailor thinks in balance. The suit should look intentional on your frame: the jacket should sit where it’s meant to sit, the sleeves should land cleanly, and the trousers should connect to the jacket without making the whole outfit look top-heavy or bottom-heavy.
That’s why choosing the right letter is not the same as hemming pants. Yes, trousers can be shortened or lengthened. But the jacket is where the fit becomes unforgiving. Once the jacket is noticeably too short or too long, the whole thing reads “off,” even if the chest size is correct.
Depending on the brand, moving between S, R, and L can subtly affect more than just inches:
- Button stance (where the front button sits, to keep the waist looking natural)
- Pocket placement (so pockets don’t look too low or too high)
- Overall jacket balance (how the front and back hang)
- Trouser rise (sometimes adjusted so the outfit stays proportionate)
Which One Should You Choose?
Here’s the best rule we can give you without turning this into a measuring seminar:
Get the shoulders and chest right first. Then choose the length letter that makes the jacket look balanced. Sleeves and trouser hems can be tailored. The shoulder fit can’t.
Choose Short (S) if you’re typically under 5'8" or Regular jackets consistently feel too long and make your legs look shorter.
Choose Regular (R) if you’re in the middle height range and most jackets look “normal” on you without drama.
Choose Long (L) if you’re around 6'2"+ or Regular jackets feel like they ride up and sleeves are always too short when the shoulder fits.
What Can a Tailor Fix?
Think of tailoring like editing. A good tailor can refine a suit. They can’t rewrite it.
- Usually easy: sleeve length, trouser hem, light waist suppression, trouser taper
- Usually not worth it: making a jacket significantly longer/shorter, major shoulder changes, trying to convert a Short into a Long
If you’re unsure, start with the suit you want, then we’ll help you land on the right size: Browse All Suits. And if you want to build the full look, you can finish it with a tie from our neckties collection or a hat from our fedoras collection.
Bottom Line
Short, Regular, and Long are about length and proportion. Pick the letter that makes the jacket sit correctly on your body, and you’ll look sharper immediately - before you even touch a tailor.
Still not sure which one you are? If you tell us your height and the suit size you usually wear (for example: 40R), we can point you in the right direction.